mappe|luoghi|comunità|memoria|identità

10/10/10

Mappe di località, un laboratorio a Carugate (Milano)

Alcune settimane orsono venni contattata da Davide Zucchetti - promotore, insieme ad altri 'ragazzi', della realizzazione di una mostra fotografica dedicata all'identità culturale e al luogo di Carugate, cittadina in provincia di Milano. Davide mi chiedeva la disponibilità del mio video Identità culturale, realizzato nel 2003 e ispirato a Lo studio dell'uomo di Ralph Linton, per usarlo come 'sfondo teorico' a tale mostra, mettendolo in loop nello spazio espositivo in cui sarebbero state esposte appunto immagini fotografiche b/n del paese negli anni '70 e una raccolta di frasi sul tema dell'identità tratte da poesie e brani letterari. Tale iniziativa rientrava nelle 'azioni' previste all'interno della Biennale d'Arte Popolare, alla prima edizione, organizzata a Carugate e sostenuta dagli enti locali in collaborazione con l'Accademia di Brera e alcune altre realtà cittadine ed extra-cittadine.

Incuriosita dall'idea di un gruppo di persone che si stava interrogando sul cambiamento culturale di un paese, rilanciai con - a mia volta - la proposta di partecipare di persona alla serata inaugurale tenendo un incontro sul tema "Identità, luogo e comunità", e di incontrare il gruppo dei 'ragazzi' che se ne stava occupando insieme a Davide in anticipo, per dare loro la mia opinione sull'allestimento e concordare lo svolgimento della serata in base ai loro interessi/obiettivi.
Fu così che venerdì 24 settembre mi recai a Carugate e li incontrai, per scoprire che i 'ragazzi' erano un gruppo di battaglieri coscritti sulla sessantina - che il tempo non aveva affatto reso meno polemici e appassionati, vivi, curiosi, e critici. Un genere di persone tra le quali mi trovo spesso bene. E così fu pure stavolta - sebbene posso io stessa immaginare le loro perplessità per una che arriva 'da fuori' e propone loro roba apparentemente 'assurda'.

La 'roba assurda' che ho proposto loro è stata di parlare 5 minuti del tema per poi animare un laboratorio sulle mappe cognitive del luogo, o di comunità, o di località, o parish maps - chiamiamole come vogliamo. In sintesi, seguendo la lezione situazionista e la psicologia cognitiva, ciò che chiedo in questi laboratori è di disegnare delle mappe che non siano cartografie in scala di un territorio, ma rappresentazioni di come un individuo 'sente' quel luogo - ovvero di disegnare tracciati delle strade che percorre/attraversa nella sua vita quotidiana, di segnare posti per lui simbolici nel presente o nel passato, per far capire ad altri cosa vede lui/lei quando 'vive' un determinato posto (in questo caso, un paese di cui è cittadino).

E alla fine così è stato: mercoledì 6 ottobre sono andata di nuovo in questo posto davvero ben curato e amato da chi lo frequenta e/o gestisce, Atrion, centro socioculturale con annessa biblioteca cittadina, e lì ho visto montata la mostra. Semplice, pulita, ma profonda e stimolante, ciò che secondo me una cosa del genere dovrebbe essere. Il pubblico ha cominciato da affluire per poi, verso le 21, riunirsi nel salone in cui - anche qui con scelte dell'ultimo momento e con molta autogestione/autorganizzazione/improvvisazione - è stata presentata l'iniziativa e io a mia volta ho dato il via alla proposta. Sul tema che avrei voluto trattare mi sono limitata appunto a pochi minuti - il testo integrale da scaricare Identità, luogo, comunità: appunti per un dibattito, se foste interessati, ve lo rendo disponibile qui.

Poi ho proposto appunto la creazione di queste mappe e lì le persone (tra le 40 e le 50 a occhio e croce) hanno aderito con un inaspettato entusiasmo. Presi fogli A3 e cominciato a disegnarvi sopra individualmente o in piccoli gruppi di 2-3 persone, hanno concluso questa prima 'tappa' della serata per poi dedicarsi al meritato rinfresco, dal quale rientrare nel momento in cui io e Davide le abbiamo chiamate a raccolta dopo aver appeso su una vetrata di Atrion i loro lavori.
Qui ho chiesto loro di raccontare la propria mappa, ed è stato davvero affascinante verificare il loro piacere e la loro facilità nel raccontarsi nel momento in cui avevano uno 'strumento' visivo cui anche gli altri - gli uditori - potevano riferirsi per orientarsi nel paese attraverso gli occhi, il disegno e il racconto del narratore, così come è stato commovente vedere che alla narrazione del singolo facevano eco approvazione, commenti e condivisione di ricordi degli altri uditori, portando ciascuno a propria volta - sullo stimolo del protagonista del momento - le proprie storie e condividendole con gli altri.

Le persone erano sorridenti, felici e un po' malinconiche - ma sempre lo si è parlando del proprio passato e di quando 'si era giovani'. Nondimento, concretamente, sono venute fuori ipotesi per il futuro del paese - ora città - e a quel punto la mia proposta è stata di concludere la serata con una 'mappa collettiva del desiderio', che ritraesse come si voleva fosse la città in futuro. Ripristinare vie d'acqua coperte nel tempo dal cemento, individuare un'area per una grande piazza per una potenziale socializzazione - specie in orario serale - di contro all'assenza di un luogo atto a questo scopo, l'installazione di panchine dove le persone possano vedersi reciprocamente e parlare, qualche gelateria o osteria (o entrambe, per soddisfare i desideri di tutti) aperta in area centrale in orario serale, più piste ciclabili, e vie chiuse al traffico nell'area della futura piazza, ma uno scorrimento migliore per quelle destinate a portare i milanesi nei centri commerciali della zona - che invero non provocavano troppe critiche per concorrenza o simili, quanto piuttosto per il traffico e l'inquinamento che hanno portato in paese.

La serata si è conclusa piacevolemente con la produzione di quest'ultimo lavoro, e il ritorno a casa soddisfatto delle persone che vi hanno partecipato. Da parte mia la sensazione che il mio modo di essere "antropologa" possa avere una qualche utilità, così come la mia stessa vita (che ogni tanto ne dubito). Grazie di cuore a tutti coloro che vi hanno partecipato - sono sempre in attesa di ascoltare le vostre storie e i vostri desideri. E di condividerli.

20/02/10

It's All London Baby (Complaining the English Way, Hygienic Norms, and Some Healthy Confusion)!

I had a wonderful dinner last Thursday with a few (girl)friends - where I learnt to complain in the English way. "Complaining the English way" means that instead of mumbling and telling yourself you will never go again in a place you disliked for something due to the service or the food, you make it notice to the manager of the place, who will do its best to compensate you for what went wrong - with a dessert, or in any other fancy way. Cool, isn't it? I like it - my critic attitude is definitely fulfilled by it.

Anyway, we had a lovely evening any anthropologists would dream about: talking with some other intellectuals, not from your field, about what we notice as similarities and differences between cultures - and Brigida and I are deeply embedded in this educational attitude and in broadering our knowledge about human cultures beyond academic community. So we spent some of our time teaching about hygienic norms and conceptions among gypsies, Italians and British people. When you take the shower in the morning, for example, we first use the bidet, and then take the shower: yes, we wash ourselves twice. And no, the bidet is not "that piece of forniture that fill the space between the WC and the sink". Just as we would never use the small towel - the one we use to dry our privates - to dry our hands and face as well, for which we use the bigger towel. Of course, we had finished our dinner before talking about these issues - it wouldn't be nice to talk about intimate washing whilst eating...

The day after I had what I consider the best interview I ever had for a job with whom could be considered at a first sight as a 'weird' professor - as I couldn't even understand, before meeting, is she was a 'she' or a 'he'. Her name is in fact Sue, but she uses as well the name Johnny to refer herself. On the net I saw some of her articles signed either with the masculine or the feminine name - so I couldn't really understand. But at a certain point I didn't worry about it anymore. "Whatever!" - I told myself, a comment really nice I learnt here, that means something like: "Whatever it is, it's not an issue of mine, and/or it doesn't make any difference" - it's all London, baby!

Anyway, the inverview didn't give me (at least not immediately) a job, but opened up some opportunities. What's more important is that it has been the best inverview I had in my life: two hours spent 1) with a passionate person willing to learn about my researches, attitudes, aims, 2) listening with a sincere interest and care to me, 3) telling me a true and objective analysis of what I've done up now (so congratulating me for the good things as well as criticising for the wrong ones), 4) suggesting me the further steps to achieve my goals (and not forcing me to necessary do this in her department), and showing to be a people person with a deep and warm kindness to support me - like she could see my past in my eyes.
Unbelievable! Something special I wish all the ones I love to live by/with someone else such as a potential mentor/tutor. So I'm keeping on thinking/wondering/reflecting about this still now. I'm getting every day more confused, but still in a serene way. Thinking about next steps. What I want to do. Where I want to live the next few months. What am I actually looking for in general...

17/02/10

Picturing London (The Map Room Is Open)

Do not trust maps, in London, they don't tell the truth: what you think is nearby on the map, will always be elsewhere in the reality. Walking is something I do really enjoy. Covering neverending distances is something I enjoy less, but still is a wonderful way to get to know a place. When I don't walk, I observe this town from above: from the upper floor of the buses, from the windows ot the overground train crossing the houses at their somthing like second floor of the houses. And I grasp instants of people lives: a white man gardening the backyard of his place, a woman caring at her kids inside a sad grey block, a couple of gothics walking to reach Camden Lock. I take the chance of any interview and any step I do in my job search (yes, now I'm searching for a job - it seems there's always something to search for here in London, doesn't it?) to discover new areas of the town, but at the moment I mostly had the chance to explore - if you look at a standard map of London and use the Thames to split the north and the south of the town, and the City as 'hardcore' of all the issue - some east, some north-east, some north-centre and some south-east of the Thames.
I had to meet Chris, a few days ago, at the 56a Infoshop Social Centre. You can reach that place taking a couple of buses from Clapton Pond (where I live) to Walworth and, as I never give up any chance to play, I did it also this time. This means that, without any 'academic' intention about questioning issues such as place, standard maps, distances and cultural assumptions about the boroughs I was going through, I jumped on a bus, reached the upper floor and began shooting pics as a common tourist. I wasn't really interested in anything in particular. I just took a pic any time I had a question or some stupid reflections were coming up to my mind.

Clapton Pond seems like a fairytale, notwithstanding its poverty. A fountain, a small wood bridge, a few trees, and probably ducks (not in this season). In front of it, waiting for the bus, you are offered the sight of some anonymous shops and a phone box sunk in the cement of the pavement (it's a pretty traumatic experience calling from there, as the pavement itself is partially lift so that you are forced to assume a diagonal position with your body as well, and hope not to fall out of your centre of gravity).
From the bus I take a few pics, perfectly knowing the areas of the town I'm in - and being able to figure them both in my mental map of London and in the memory I have of the standard map of it, but still... where are the borders among the different boroughs? And how comes that sometimes boroughs are not written in some maps, but smaller areas within them are? Which is the reason why a map includes the name of a smaller area and skips out the one of a bigger borough?

The freedom of enjoying this small trip gives me the chance to notice and joke about the places, so that I feel moved as I see a huge building in cement, glass and steel with two high wings... and something that seems just fallen down between them. I can imagine it desperately crying to the people walking quickly in the streets nearby, and I can hear its voice and story: "Hey, you, can you help? I'm a piece of the roof, I fell between the two wings of this building and it's so narrowed that I can't stand up anymore so to climb it and get back to my place... CAN SOMEONE HEEELP?!?!?!?!".





Chris (Captain Mapp) draws maps, and makes people do the same. Then he collects the works produced and organises exhibitions of them. I ask him what's next, when he leads a workshop or a walk with people, and they produce their maps of a place, or tell him their stories/memories about a neighbourhood in the past. "What's next? Nothing!" - he replies. All is spent in the dimension of the actualising, in a full situationist style.
I got to know him whilst searching online for maps and mapping in London, and I met the project “THE MAP ROOM (is open…)” – that exists also in reality as “suitcase” archives of maps, projects, festivals he produced (or led the production of)… The maps we are talking about are not the usual ones, with standard points of reference anybody could use to orientate in the space: they are subjective, emotional, symbolic, and mostly depict their author, his/her memories, points of view and desires. They reflect the sense of a place by those who live it, and for this reason both a (psycogeographer) artist and an anthropologist can be interested in them. I’m starting wondering how an ethnographic project I have in my mind about the issue of “personal and collective identity” could match with his work and be developed by our different, but closed, gazes. One of these days, I will find out the time to write a draft about it, and ask Chris to give me his feedbacks and work on it himself too.

More pics here: From Clapton Pond to Walworth

25/01/10

Is This an Ordinary Day (a Walk in Camden, Unexpected Kindness, and British Good Food)?

Waking up quite early in the morning last Saturday - 4 cats around are not really the best company to sleep as long as you would like to! - I made up my mind to get to Camden Lock Market and have a walk around there before meeting in the afternoon with the London Art & Culture group.

I took the overtrain and then walked down the railway station to reach the market area. Camden is a folkloristic place to say the least, where people go to exhibit themselves and tourists buy any kind of fake punk stuff to have the feeling they recall an old memory, born and developed here, who affected them not only in teenager years - fucking seductive for the ones of us who still live/feel that way.

 

I mixed with this human flow, and became a further stranger among them. I ended up eating a wonderful seafood paella - sitting on the pavement in front of the channel. Sun was kissing me and about other 50 winter lizards, whilst looking around and thinking about my best friend and how much I desired to have her here with me to share this.

'Kindness' is the password, and no matter at the moment that it might sometimes be connected with hypocrisy - althugh I didn't notice this happening around me up now. "Anything bad that might happen to you, if you go through any crisis or feel like crying or just need to talk, call me!" - a complete unknow lovely girl from the London Art & Culture group told me this after visiting together a contemporary art exhibition last Saturday at Saatchi Gallery. Yes, this is London, something very different from the cold, cool town of our imagination. The exhibition wasn't astonishing: much of the works was somehow already seen - it seems to be quite hard to say something really new in contemporary art! But at least I met lovely Londoners in it - Rebecca and Samina. Yes, my dear ladies: I feel a little more confident now so I'll be able to join you also in the evening next time!

Sunday I met Brigida and her friend Ula to go to a free shop in the area of Spitalfields. But we soon ended up, with some more mates, to join a pub - one of the most messed up place I've ever been, with such a loud volume music you couldn't talk, so stuffy that you can understand why swein flue spread so much here, and with such a bad and mixed taste in forniture&decoration that you don't need to get drunk to throw up. This to tell the truth, but nervertheless the building was really lovely, and in any case there was a very nice and relaxed atmosphere - not to mention the brilliant Brigida's friends and the funny conversations we had with them!

We finally went for dinner in a place that deserves a mention, as everybody say UK food sucks: no, it doesn't (when you have an 'anthropologist of food' leading you to *highly selected* bistrots such as the St. John restaurant where you get local food cooked according to ancient recipes. What I tasted recalled no memory in my head, it was something unexpected and so good that you... ahem... can't believe it's British!

20/01/10

Chronicles from the Underworld (Lost in the Supermarket, Kultur Shock, and Another Little Sister)

Another day wandering around - still not knowing what to do next months, and taking the day off to go shopping and then relaxing, as I needed to... Went to Tesco in the area of Hackney Central Station: "I'm lost in the supermarket / I can no longer shop happily". Little differences for an anonymous non-place. I found my way by talking to people: "God gave us the tongue to be able to ask directions" - as I used to say to strangers on my first Inter-rail when I was 18, and everybody wondered how this young girl could feel home everywhere, even in perfectly unknown places.



I spent the evening watching with my flatmate (and landlord) "The Boat That Rocked" (on a big screen & videoprojection: sometimes is not bad to enjoy others' richness!), a lovely good film, with an amazing sountrack, about the first free radios in UK in late 60s. Rebels, pirates - we keep on building on that, isn't it? The last romantics...

Thuesday passed in writing emails to universities, then, in the evening, I eventually went to one of the best concerts I've seen the last years: Kultur Shock, playing at the Camden Underworld. The Underworld is a music club, in the basement of a tipical victorian building. A good band played as supporters, Drunken Balordi. Fine gipsy punk, slightly folk too, sometimes. But really good.

And then Kultur Shock went on stage. And their songs and attitudes are really engaging and immersive! Take a look at the video to have an idea of the two hours I had the pleasure and honour to join. The violinist was the sexiest woman I've ever seen, and the singer had such a powerful voice and shy attitude at the same time, that you felt like crying at the lyrics of their songs.



Little differences: people in Italy dance. With different styles, some being a real vision of beauty, some others making you smile as they still have to train - but yet, they all dance and move according to the rythm. Here none of the people of the audience could dance, not even move to the rythm. Running, punching, kicking or, less dangerously, simply jumping. No surprise that "the music of the people who couldn't play" - the punk - was born here by these beat&melody unconscious people! But I've been told that *the norther people* (expecially the ones from the area of Liverpool or the ones who come from different areas of England and then joined together) are much better, ahahah!...

The concert ended at 11pm - quite surprising for me used to concerts beginning at that hour, but this meant no worries in coming back. Even when not knowing where the bus stop to come back was. I asked a little young girl with violet hair, piercings, black clothes, with the @ stuck everywhere on her light jacket. And she moved from her way to lead me to the right bus stop - walking in the coldness of this humid town. "Aren't you cold?" I asked. "Yes" - she replied with a smile. We said goodbye at the bus stop, and she straight off kissed me on my cheeks. I will probably never see her again, but she is part of my personal beautiful world now - a sister, a mate, an 'accomplice' in making the *wider society* better, and more mutually supportive. So thanks, my dear: wish you to keep on behaving this way!

20/10/09

London Borough of Hackney (Unfamiliar Faces, Vegan Anarchists, and Autumn Smell)


Hackney is a lovely place. A little scaring, but I guess it's only because I'm a newby, and I can't recognise people's attitudes by their faces yet - as one can do when is familiar with a place. It will take time. And I'm not used to so many black people around. It's not a racial judgement, mine: it's a realization. It's kinda weird to wander around these white fancy terraced homes, and seeing old black people talking/smoking at the front door of them... I mean: this is the stereotype we have of Jamaica, not of London! But still is nice. And they all great you!

Greeting people you don't know seems to be the easiest and most common thing here. I began a walk of the neighbourhood in late morning yesterday, to meet up with Brigida in the afternoon, and walking down the street to reach the local shopping area to buy some food I was greeted by all the people I saw without knowing them: a woman at the front door of her house, an old man while mending his car, a young guy riding his bike, the dustman who was sweeping the street. This was so weird!

 
After a few blocks, I eventually reached 'my' place: the Pogo Cafè, the meet-up point of the anarchists/squatters of the area - vegan, gluten free and definitely laid-back. With lovely people inside, sharing experiences about squatting and travelling, or talking about any issues, or simply sitting on a couch and reading. Brigida and I had lunch there and could grasp some words form the tables around (you know: we are anthropologists, always spying other people's lives) - definitely nice ones!

We ended up with a long walk, reaching another nice street - Broadway Market, where on Saturdays there's a vegetables & fruits market - full of fancy people, where you unpredictably feel 'home' even if it has nothing in common with the one you left in your hometown.
And again, walked through London Fields. The leaves mixed with the wet ground produced an autumn smell, and reminded me of many other good moments in my life - like a time warp where time bends on itself.

20/02/09

Etnografia dello spazio urbano III - Povertà, ristrutturazioni, la 'nostra' casa

All’inizio era un complesso di case popolari. Edificate negli anni ’50, i criteri estetici che ne erano alla base avevano fatto esclamare a un’amica bulgara “Sembrano proprio casa mia!”. Gli isolati si ripetevano uguali, composti di edifici squadrati di quattro piani che richiudevano al loro interno cortili in terra battuta adibita a improprio e spartano parcheggio. Nessun bambino vi avrebbe mai potuto giocare.
La povertà regnava (e regna) sovrana e la si poteva riconoscere con qualsiasi organo di senso. Dalla finestra si scorgono ancora adesso balconi pieni di cianfrusaglie ivi depositate in tempi remoti e dimenticate, protette da tele cerate a mo’ di tende che sbattono con un rumore accartocciato e sordo nelle luminose giornate di vento. In estete voci dialettali e voci straniere si mescolano a odori di fritto e di sugo di pomodoro per entrare in casa e ricordarti che quello è il tuo rifugio, ma che non sei mai solo – qualsiasi cosa ti possa accadere.

Per mia nonna questo alloggio era il suo regno, conquistato a fatica e segno del ‘benessere’ raggiunto con il lavoro e il risparmio. Ben diverso da come è oggi - dopo che vi ho messo le mani io trasformandolo nello spazio di una professionista 35enne – aveva ai miei occhi di bambina un aspetto datato, triste e un po’ stantio, pur se mia nonna passava il tempo a tirarlo a lucido. L’aria dimessa dell’appartamento era comune a tutto il palazzo. Bianche le pareti degli alloggi, in legno i mobili a esclusione di quelli in plastica della cucina. Allo stesso modo, bianche erano le pareti delle scale, in marmo i gradini, in legno il mancorrente. Giallina pallida la facciata esterna. Nulla doveva risaltare, nessun cambiamento era possibile: poveri eravamo e poveri dovevamo rimanere.


Ignoro come passammo dall’essere inquilini di casa popolare – grazie a quella subdola matrona di mia nonna che aveva trafficato attraverso un prete per entrare nella graduatoria degli aventi diritto – a proprietari dell’alloggio in questione. So che piano piano tutti i vari inquilini dei vari alloggi riuscirono anch’essi ad acquistarli o a farli acquistare da fratelli, sorelle, nipoti così da creare (salvo per quanto riguarda noi, dato che nel nostro caso la famiglia è sempre stata composta da quattro gatti) una trama di relazioni così che ancora oggi anziché telefonarsi o andarsi a fare visita si aggiornano quotidianamente sulle reciproche condizioni di salute urlando da balcone a balcone.


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L’alloggio al secondo piano venne ‘rinfrescato’ alcuni anni fa. Poi io buttai giù le pareti del mio e colorai in lilla e bordeaux il mio ‘castello’ (così lo chiamarono gli altri inquilini del palazzo che videro passare per settimane piastrelle, palchetti in legno, sanitari nuovi e mobili IKEA comprati appositamente). Infine anche al piano rialzato il giovane proprietario buttò giù parte delle pareti e si lanciò nel dipingere quelle rimanenti in viola e verde acqua.
L’euforia ristrutturante attraversò come una scossa elettrica la tromba delle scale e a questo punto i condomini ripresero il vecchio progetto sino a quel momento accantonato di installare finalmente un ascensore, rosicando qualche centimetro a quattro piani di gradini. E così fu. Uno scafandro di non particolare bellezza salvò le gambe e i polmoni di quelli che invecchiavano e destò una rinnovata gioia nei neopensionati che, forse in cerca di nuove battaglie, proposero di riverniciare la tromba delle scale e, di già che c’erano, cambiare il vecchio portone d’ingresso – invero molto buio – con uno nuovo, anch’esso in legno, ma dotato di aperture vetrate per lasciar passare la luce. Si fece anche quello.

Il fervore e l’orgoglio dell’appartenenza a – e del possesso di – uno spazio che pur nella sua modestia diventava sempre più gradevole aprì all’impegno individuale a svuotare le aree comuni delle cantine dalle macerie abbandonate nel tempo, passando attraverso i rimbrotti a chi parcheggiava temporaneamente passeggini o biciclette nel piccolo androne e alla critica alla pulizia sommaria del condominio da parte dell’impresa scelta dall’amministratore. Insomma: i condomini si rivelavano sempre più attenti, gelosi e orgogliosi del palazzo fino a giungere alla decisione di lanciarsi nell’impresa della ristrutturazione delle facciate esterne.


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Anni addietro, su una di queste, un tifoso granata aveva scritto “Tororo” (?) con tanto di corna sulla prima ‘o’ che faceva sorridere benevolmente del suo entusiasmo, che l’aveva portato a raddoppiare la seconda sillaba della sua squadra del cuore, chiunque leggesse. Un ponteggio mobile ora lo cancellava e, pur rimanendo l’obbligo di sostituire il color canarino precedente con un’altra anonima vernice gialla, ci prendemmo la libertà di darne tante mani da renderla quasi un ocra. In un guizzo estremo di fantasia e presunzione, infine, facemmo installare tubature per lo scolo dell’acqua piovana in rame all’esterno del palazzo e quando fu libero dai ponteggi a guardarlo dalla strada concordammo soddisfatti che il lavoro era venuto proprio bene. Ci montammo la testa affermando che "aveva qualcosa del Beaubourg" e da quel momento in poi ci sentimmo davvero ricchi.
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